Tips and Tricks  

Some tips on getting the best quality whip for your money.

1. The handle should be made of something that will not "RUST" as all leather will absorb moisture

             over time.Using something that will rust may prompt you to use your credit card or other resources for additional purchases.

Some will use a steel spike or thereof, this has no give and will soon show!

2. Shot loading is all about optimization not over loading and making the whip to heavy for cracking.

If you are going to be learning or working-out hard a heavy whip is like 40 kgs extra around the

waist in a marathon!

3. Steel shot again is a problem! Rust! Leather likes to absorb moisture, it won't show until it is to late.

4. Lots of fancy braiding! I also put fancy stuff on my whips but it can cause problems with the flow of a

whip if it is just another fancy bit added on! All is fare in art and war!

5. Do you need 72 braid? When it comes to hard work a 72 or (thereof) is kind of like 100 pound weakling.

These high braids are great for the art of, but sometimes the cheaper lower braids last the longest.

6. It's all about fun!!!! This is a good point, not a do I get my bang for my buck. A good or well made

whip will (in some cases) out last the buyer. But it really depends on how you use or abuse it.

7. For stock whip handles a paper wrap would be fine if the whip stays dry all the times but even

the most looked after whip can get wet and that's when the trouble starts. I have repaired far to many whips

that paper is used on the inside of handles and it has slipped and the keeper has pulled away.

From the whip man, have a "Whip crack'n good time!".

 1. Tying on a cracker  

 2. Replacement of rat-tail/fall